Being High Maintenance, not Bitchy: Toners: love em or leave em?

Friday, July 13, 2007

Toners: love em or leave em?

There is a fiery debate going on in the world of skincare, and it threatens to challenge one of the holy pillars of skincare routines. For years experts have been telling us that the road to skincare involves only 4 simple steps: cleansing, toning, moisturizing, and sunscreen, with a little baby step called exfoliating popping up once a week. However, it seems now that one of those steps may not be necessary!

Recently I have heard rumors going around that it may not be necessary to use a toner and that in fact even using one could be harmful to your skin (gasp!). Opponents of toners accuse it of causing dryness and according to Boston dermatologist Ranella J. Hirsch, M.D., vice president of the American Society of Cosmetic Dermatology & Aesthetic Surgery, toners are “are actually removing… the normal oils which we have been trained to think is dirt.” Removing these oils can cause skin to go out of balance and produce even more oil. She recommends sticking to a simple cleaning routine designed for your facial type and avoiding excessive cleansing, toners, and even exfoliating, unless directed by a dermatologist.

On the other side of the battlefield, are those who believe in the conventional wisdom of using a toner between cleansing and applying moisturizers. According to aesthetician Melissa Brooks on her website http://www.facial-skincare-product-guide.com/, using a toner is essential because it removes left-over residue from your cleanser and contains water-binding agents which help to lock in moisturizers better than just plain old water. She also goes on to say that toners give skin that nice “fresh and clean” feel and are like the primer for your skin before it can receive moisturizer, sunscreen, or whatever other crazy products you slather on.

Hmm, this sounds the exact opposite to me of what Dr. Hirsch says; so what is the real truth?

There are 3 categories within toners that I think need to be distinguished here:

Skin fresheners: these are the mildest toners and contain little to no alcohol. They do contain ingredients called humectants, which help lock moisture into your skin by preventing it from evaporating. These are ideally suited for dry and sensitive to normal skin types.
Skin tonics: slightly stronger than fresheners, this category of toners usually contain up to 20% alcohol along with the usual ingredients and are suited for normal to oily skin types.
Astringents: these are the strongest form of toners out there. Astringents contain 20-60% of alcohol, as well as some form of antiseptic ingredient, such as witch hazel. These should only be used by those with very oily skin and used stringently on the face.

The key here it seems, is knowing your skin type. Once you know that, you can decide if a toner is right for you. Having used all 3 categories of toners myself I do believe that astringents should never be used unless your dermatologist says so. It seems a common mistake for people to launch a nuclear war on their face and blast away any oils they have, but these oils are essential to maintaining your skin’s balance. I could probably do without using a toner at all, but I do see some results from using one daily. Firstly, that little cotton ball doesn’t come off absolutely white, so the toner does seem to work to remove residue left behind by my cleanser. Second, I enjoy that fresh feeling a toner gives me in the morning, and I find using a toner very useful to cleanse my skin after a sweltering hot day or a strenuous workout at the gym. Thirdly, using a toner is great for some gentle extra help in banishing those nasty blemishes.

What everyone seems to agree on in skin care is finding and maintaining that balance. I use a gentle cleanser, and a gentle non-alcohol containing toner, so I don’t find that the toner dries out my skin. If you’re using a strong scrubbing cleanser and an astringent everyday, then likely your skin will try to kick you in the shins by becoming flaky or excessively oily. Melissa Brooks also extols this advice and recommends only using non-alcoholic toners. So don’t throw all your toners out just yet, but really find out what works for you. Everyone’s face is different and only by experimenting and doing some careful research can you find your own way to great looking skin.

Recommendations:

Nivea Visage Gentle Toner for Dry or Sensitive Skin: alcohol free and contains moisturizing Aloe Vera and lotus extracts to remove impurities, refine pores and hydrate skin.

Garnier Fresh Invigorating Toner: containing grape and apple extracts, this toner is cheap and promises to tighten pores while removing dead skin cells and impurities from skin. Suited for normal and combination skin types.